Watches and Wonders 2022
After two years of entirely digital events, The 2022 Watches and Wonders Geneva is eagerly awaited since it marks the return to an in-person salon reuniting all the watch industry professionals, the world’s media, retailers, and guests of the exhibiting brands. it was essential to return to the face-to-face format. And the Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022 will therefore have a hybrid format, with both a physical event, for those attending in Geneva, and a digital version.
New watches from Patek Philippe, Tudor, and Rolex dominated conversations on the show floor. But Oris and TAG Heuer proved that they’re still masters of classic categories such as pilot and dive watches.
Watches and Wonders 2022 – Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe has never before combined its beloved “travel time” complication with an annual calendar, which only needs to be adjusted once per year. Patek Philippe upgraded the iconic Calatrava collection in vintage style, with a newly refined case in white gold engraved with a hobnail pattern on the entire circumference of the case band. The charcoal gray vintage-inspired dial features a black-gradient rim; its slightly grainy texture is reminiscent of antique camera cases.
The latest addition to the Calatrava collection, this new white gold Reference 5226 is a perfect illustration of Patek Philippe’s quest for excellence in all fields of watchmaking art. Starting with the shape of the pure, round case for which Calatrava models have been renowned since 1932, Patek Philippe has revisited this by adorning the flanks with a Clous de Paris hobnail pattern typical of the Manufacture. So as to enable this guilloched motif to continue around the entire case band, the designers have also devised a distinctive case construction in which the lugs are an integral part of the case back.
Watches and Wonders 2022 – Tudor Black Bay
Many an enthusiast had been clamoring for a Tudor GMT housed in the 39mm Black Bay 58 case. Well, they sort of got it! Some of them may wish for a thinner case — the BBP measures nearly 15mm tall, including the crystal — others will no doubt love the vintage-inspired looks and availability of the Black Bay Pro compared to Rolex’s wares.
Speaking of Rolex, the Black Bay Pro is no doubt inspired by the first-generation Explorer II. However, that watch is long out of production, making this one from Tudor a fine alternative. And at a price of $4,000 on steel, it’s perfect for someone who wants a watch with “true” GMT functionality but can’t spring for a ~$10,000 GMT Master II.
Watches and Wonders 2022 – Rolex GMT Master II
Watches and Wonders 2022 – Oris
Oris takes the company’s in-house Caliber 400 with a five-day power reserve — and 10-year recommended service interval! — and houses it in a super cool titanium case with a matching, serpentine bracelet. Sleek and handsome. Some folks care about in-house movements, some don’t. But who wouldn’t want a great-looking everyday watch with a fantastic movement, a 10-year warranty, and a great bracelet at under $4,500?
Watches and Wonders 2022 – TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma
This new timepiece features the innovative Diamant d’Avant-grade technology and a disruptive design. This technical disruption is a new way of mastering design and the play of light with material, and the versatility of lab-grown diamonds provides unbounded creativity.
It marked a major milestone in the over 160-year-old company’s history and the watch industry at large.
Not only is it the most expensive watch the brand’s ever produced but it incorporates interesting elements in a way we’ve never seen before. It’s all about diamonds: the crown itself is a massive lab-grown diamond, and more diamonds have been integrated into the case itself (in an interesting way). It shows TAG Heuer’s capabilities and creativity, and perhaps even hints a the kind of features that can be expected in more widely available watches in the future.
Watches and Wonders 2022 – Grand Seiko
This isn’t just the most expensive watch Grand Seiko has ever produced. It’s also out of character for a brand typically known for practicality and a conservative style. A skeletonized tourbillon is neither of those things, but it shows off the brand’s impressive capabilities — and its rise to competing among the most prestigious high-end watchmakers. This isn’t your average tourbillon, either: it’s developed to maintain a steady flow of power even as the spring winds down in order to maintain chronometry. From this watch, we can know the creativity and quality Grand Seiko looking at.
Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques 222
The 222 from 1977 was one of the original crops of “luxury sports watches.” However, fewer than 1,000 of the first-generation watches were made, sending secondary market prices into six-figure territory. This modern reimagining under the Historiques line means that collectors can finally enjoy the 222 — albeit with an updated movement from Vacheron. Dedicated fans of Vacheron, lovers of luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets, and gold watch devotees, in general, are all going gaga for the 222 Historiques. It’s one of the show favorites, and we can see why — it’s handsome, it’s available and it’s a whole lot of gold.
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire
With this new Big Bang Tourbillon, Hublot unveils an exclusive version of sapphire, in a completely new color: translucent purple—a world-first in the field of fine watchmaking.
Perfectly illustrating Hublot’s watchmaking savoir-faire, this movement designed and produced within the Manufacture is distinguished by its automatic winding system with ball bearings, which offers a convenient 3-day power reserve. The design of the new caliber is equally innovative and features a micro-rotor on the dial side, as well as three sapphire bridges. The unique and highly technical layout emphasizes the spectacular aesthetics of the tourbillon and its contemporary design.
In search of the perfect fusion between movement and case, Hublot engineers and chemists have researched and developed a transparent material that reveals the heart of the watch, all while being robust enough to effectively protect the mechanism. That’s how the Manufacture has become the expert in synthetic sapphire, a material from which it derives its aesthetic qualities that are unique within watchmaking – transforming each watch into a work of art.
Watches and Wonders will take place from March 27 to April 2 in 2023, its organizer has announced. Looking forward to the event.
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